Antwerp- july 18,19

Not a good start as the only coffee open is Starbucks where a coffee costs more than a cappuccino and good pastry everywhere else. Then headed south over a cool bridge, through port (biggest in europe); rotterdam definitely not on the not-to-be-missed list. In good news, found out that sunday is belgium national day so the great synagogue will be open (plus a parade); changing plans so I can see it. Saw cool 1/8 train while riding along, and then missed (doesn't run 10am-1pm) ferry across the oude maas. So mostly unpleasant detour through dordrecht to find a bridge, then back along river to cross the larger hollands diep and into brabant province. Good trail still, although google confused on occasion, telling me to turn where there are no turns and sending me up 2 sets of stairs. Belgium (no hint of a border) signage and trails a little worse, but still solid. And bigger houses. First day over 80 degrees, and no wind. 70 miles and actually average speed over 10mph, must be the wind.  

Friday took a walking tour with Marc and learned that antwerp was the world's center in 1500s. A great port (brugues had too much silt; still 2nd biggest in Europe), leading commercial center with first stock exchange and lots of guilds (and still 90% of world's diamonds go through here), a printing hub for books about geography, languages, anatomy, science and religion. Alas it all ended in 1585 when it was conquered during 80 year war. Beautiful churches, buildings and train station with a well functioning metro too. Big haredi population here too. 0 miles, 19k steps.